How to Identify Pure Silk in Handloom Sarees

How to Identify Pure Silk in Handloom Sarees

India has always been a treasure trove of handwoven textiles, with handloom sarees holding a special place in every woman’s wardrobe. Among these, pure silk sarees like Banarasi silk, Khandua silk, tissue sarees, organza sarees, and georgette sarees stand out for their elegance, sheen, and heritage.

However, with the rise of powerloom copies and synthetic blends, it’s become more important than ever to know how to identify pure silk in handloom sarees. Whether you’re shopping online or at a physical store, being an informed buyer helps ensure you’re investing in authentic, handmade, and artisan-crafted sarees.

In this guide, we’ll walk you through tips and tests to identify pure silk handloom sarees with confidence.

 

 

1. Understand the Basics: What Is Pure Silk?

Pure silk is a natural fiber produced by the larvae of silkworms. It’s luxurious, soft, and has a natural sheen. In contrast, many fake sarees use polyester or artificial silk that looks similar but lacks the feel, drape, and longevity of the real thing.

When it comes to handloom silk sarees, the weaving process is entirely done by hand, adding to the uniqueness and richness of every piece.


2. The Touch Test: Feel the Fabric

Gently rub the silk saree between your fingers. Pure silk feels smooth but slightly warm due to the natural fiber. Synthetic or mixed fabrics feel cold and overly slippery.

Khandua silk and Banarasi silk sarees made from real silk often have a slightly grainy texture due to the handloom weave, which you won’t find in machine-made alternatives.


3. The Burn Test (Do This Carefully!)

This is a common test but should be done responsibly, preferably with a tiny thread from the inner corner or pallu:

  • Burn a small thread of the fabric.

  • Pure silk burns slowly and smells like burnt hair.

  • The ash should crumble easily.

  • Fake silk (polyester) smells like burning plastic and forms a hard bead.

This is a tried-and-tested method used by experts to differentiate authentic handloom silk sarees from synthetic ones.


4. Check the Zari Work

In sarees like Banarasi silk and Khandua silk, the zari work (gold/silver threads) is a crucial identifier. Real zari is made with silver or gold threads over silk, while fake zari is made with plastic or metallic yarn.

Look closely at the shine—authentic zari in pure silk sarees has a soft, regal glow, unlike the gaudy shine of cheap fakes.


5. Look for Irregularities – That’s a Good Thing!

One of the most charming things about handloom sarees is their imperfections. Slight inconsistencies in weave or print patterns are not defects—they’re proof of handmade craftsmanship.

Atulya Karigari, for example, works with Indian artisans who pour hours into every weave, creating beautiful irregularities that make your handloom silk saree one-of-a-kind.


6. Check for Authentic Labels or GI Tags

Genuine handloom silk sarees often come with certifications:

  • Handloom Mark: Issued by the Government of India to certify that the saree is woven on a handloom.

  • Silk Mark: Certifies that the saree is made from 100% pure silk.

  • GI Tag (Geographical Indication): Available for traditional sarees like Banarasi silk, Khandua silk, etc.

These labels are especially important when you’re shopping for silk sarees online.


7. Buy from Authentic, Artisan-Focused Platforms

Always purchase from trusted brands that support artisans and promote Indian handloom. Platforms like Atulya Karigari collaborate directly with local weavers and artists, ensuring authenticity, fair trade, and transparency.

Whether you’re buying a tissue saree, organza saree, or a traditional Banarasi silk saree, you're not just getting a product—you’re supporting a legacy.


8. Observe the Shine and Sheen

Pure silk sarees have a subtle, elegant luster that shifts colors depending on the angle of light. This dual-tone or iridescent effect (especially in tissue or organza sarees) is hard to replicate in synthetic fabrics.

Fake silk often looks too shiny and reflects light uniformly, which is a dead giveaway.


9. Ask the Right Questions

When buying in-store or online, don’t hesitate to ask:

  • Is this 100% pure silk?

  • Is this handloom or powerloom?

  • Does this saree have a Silk Mark or Handloom tag?

  • Where was this saree made?

  • Are the artisans paid fairly?

Brands who are genuinely artisan-driven and ethical—like Atulya Karigari—will gladly provide these details.


Conclusion

In a world of fast fashion, choosing handloom silk sarees is not just about style—it's about sustainability, heritage, and impact. From Khandua silk sarees of Odisha to Banarasi silk sarees of Varanasi, each piece is a labor of love by skilled artisans who keep India’s textile traditions alive.

Next time you buy a saree, remember these tips. Choose authentic, pure silk. Choose handmade. Choose to support artisans.

 

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